Why Fit and Fabric Matter: Crafting the Perfect White Shirt

A crisp white shirt is a timeless wardrobe essential, but it’s the fit and fabric which transform a simple garment into a perfect one. The right fit ensures comfort and elegance whereas the right fabric defines structure and drape.

Below is a handy guide to all of the individual elements which make up the perfect white shirt, so you know exactly what to look for when searching for your new shirting soul mate. 

Picking the Perfect Fit

Image credit: The Shirt Company

A well-fitting white button down shirt for women might look deceptively simple, but it’s made up of a multitude of carefully considered style choices. It should skim, not squeeze, be tailored at the shoulders, slightly tapered through the waist, and free from unsightly pulls across the chest.

Such exceptional quality and consideration might be mainstream in the world of men’s tailoring, but it can be surprisingly difficult to find for women. In the words of The Shirt Company’s founder, Donna Middleton:

“Smart, well-cut tailored shirts for women represent a significantly under-served category in the fashion market. Too often, the options available lean heavily toward either trend-driven styles or overly masculine silhouettes, leaving a gap for designs that balance and excellent fit, elegance, and versatility. There is a clear demand for trans-seasonal, ageless shirting that can effortlessly move between settings and seasons, offering women polished, timeless options.”

Image credit: The Shirt Company

Here’s what goes into The Shirt Company’s formula for the perfect white shirt for women:

• A sharp well-shaped collar with a classic shape. Enough collar height and length to neatly encircle the neck and to frame the face 

• Carefully shaped arm holes with an elegant curve and cut high to avoid excess fabric under the arms. Designed to sit beautifully under jackets and prevent the rest of the shirt lifting when raising the arms

• A beautifully cut silhouette with extra room at the bust. Designed to skim and flatter women of all body types

• Buttons which are thoughtfully positioned for the perfect fit, including a hidden button at the bust to prevent gaping

• A feminine sleeve cut with a generous sleevehead and plenty of room for the bicep area to ensure fluidity of movement 

• A precise sleeve cuff finishing at the wrist bone with a little extra room to allow the sleeve to slip up the forearm when raising the arms

• Enough body length  to look exceptional whether worn tucked in or out.

• Great quality fabric

Choosing the Perfect Fabric

Image credit: The Shirt Company

Each fabric has its own unique essence and characteristics. Below is a handy guide so you can swot up on which fabric does what:

Cotton Poplin

Taut, crisp, and structured, cotton poplin endows your shirt with architectural elegance. It holds tailored forms. Think neat collars and clean lines, perfect for structured minimalism and underrated style. Cotton pooplin isn’t a one trick pony though, and this fabric is equally well-suited to a beautiful ruffle

Cotton Twill

Cotton twill is woven with a diagonal weave which offers added weight, softness, and subtle texture. It drapes slightly more than poplin, lending warmth and adaptability. Cotton twill is especially well-suited to cooler weather.

Image credit: The Shirt Company

Cotton Jersey

Soft, forgiving, and knit for movement, the jersey blends polish with non-creasing comfort. It's medium-weight, won’t cling or reveal underlayers, and is perfect for popping in a suitcase for a city break. 

Linen

Known for its exceptional breathability, linen brings an undone elegance with its natural weave and relaxed drape. Ideal for warmer climes. Linen softens over time giving a stylish, lived-in allure. 

Image credit: The Shirt Company

Tencel

Sustainably derived from wood pulp, Tencel is a modern fabric celebrated for its eco-friendly credentials and silky-soft feel. Naturally breathable, moisture-wicking, and resistant to wrinkles, it offers the drape and smoothness of silk with the practicality of cotton.

Silk

Silk is luxury incarnate; sheeny, smooth, and indulgent on the skin. It drapes with fluidity and adds instant elevation to any ensemble. 

Crepe

Known for its subtle texture and slight stretch, crepe offers soft feminine structure and is ideal for freedom of movement. It drapes fluidly across the body without clinging, which makes it ideal for draped collars or relaxed yet elegant styling.